There’s a lot going on in this gin, made with a mix of 29 botanicals, including California grapefruit, California bay leaf and a duo of mushrooms. Yet somehow, it all comes together: the opening salvo is spicy and bold with anise, pepper, and clove, before moving to a waxy lemon peel and juniper midpalate and finishing dry and dusty with suggestions of cocoa powder, coriander, and spicy grains of paradise.