Anyone could be sitting in the dim recesses of Pinch Kitchen. One recent night, six older women in country-club-ready sweatsuits gather around wine and clay bowls piled with bitter brassicas with a fresh snowfall of salty ricotta salata. Nearby, a young couple on what seems to be a first date shift nervously in their seats. Neither is brave enough to demand the diver scallops perched atop a brisk piquillo pepper sauce.
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